The Emeralds & Bowman Lake 7/3

I haven’t been on a weekend climbing trip in a while due to my sporadic work schedule, so as soon as Mitch and Dave invited me to join them for a weekend filled climbing trip I jumped on it instantly. I-80 was traffic was crawling with people rushing up to Tahoe for a 4th of July weekend filled with booze and fire works. It took me an extra two hours in the hot summer sun to make it to the Emeralds where Dave and Mitch were at. (Usually takes two hours) As soon as I parked my truck, I wasted no time on getting out and moving. I don’t have a problem with long drives, but a combination of traffic and hot sun doesn’t sit well with me. 
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Dave starting up "Second Time Around" 5.8 while Mitch belays.

Fortunately all the approaches at The Emeralds are real easy and straight forward. With a brisk 10 minute walk I was already with my friends. We started climbing instantly, warming up on an easy 5.8 “Second Time Around”. After Dave and I ran our respective laps, we walked down a little ways and jumped on "Unknown" 5.10d. This was a real easy route with only two bolts. It was a two-move wonder route with an easy scramble to the first bolt then on the head wall was there crux. After I lead that, I climbed “White Riot” 5.11a. ​​

Mitch leading "Super Size Me" 5.11a

“White Riot” was one of the better routes I climbed that day. It starts off with an easy sequence to the first two bolts. Then it goes into a corner sequence covered by a roof with a  hand size crack splitting it. You clip the third bolt then work the roof crack come over to the head wall and work your way up to the anchors. The high light of “White Riot” is the roof section by far. Dave ended up following the route on top rope and cleaning it. When Dave came down we all headed out to Fast Food Wall.

Ive climbed a bunch of times at The Emeralds and Fast Food Wall has remained my favorite wall so far. All the lines I’ve climbed there have been very clean and aesthetic. The right side of the wall, you belay off a gnarly ledge clipped into a lower belay-bolt. We started the climbing on the left side of the wall and I tried leading “In and Out Urge” 5.11b/5.11c (The grade varies between Mountain Project and guide books) I got up halfway on the route and started to feel my lack of food really take a toll. I had a pint of berries and coffee all day (it was 6pm by then) and I felt like complete shit. I tried working the crux of the route a few times and decided it was to heinous for my current state. I lowered off and Mitch gave it a go. He was able to pass my spot where I had bailed and made it to the next bolt. He to was shut down and bailed off. The route next to it was easier 5.11a “Super Size Me”.

Dave enjoying a top rope on "Super Size Me" 5.11a

Dave leading "Please Pull Forward" 5.10d

Mitch lead “Super Size Me” 5.11a and took a couple times but finished the route. He fixed my lead line to the anchors and directed it to the route to the left we previously climbed and cleaned it. I jugged the fixed line and took some pictures of Dave top roping “Super Size Me” 5.11a. Dave was real strong through the whole route, only taking a couple falls in the tougher section but finished the climb. Once lowered, Mitch gave the route another go hoping for a clean ascent. After some good climbing, Mitch toped out right as the sun started to set. 


Dave and Mitch went over to the right side of the wall and Dave had a sick lead on "Please Pull Forward" 5.10d. After Dave lead it, both Mitch and I ran up it to to finish off the day on a nice send train. Instead of driving back that night, Dave had access to a cabin in Donner and we cruised over the there for some beers and sausage. We spent the night on some cozy cots in the driveway under the stars. ​

We woke up feeling good, ready for another full day of climbing. After some coffee and a breakfast beer, we found our selves on our way to Bowman Lake for a day full of sport climbing. ​

Mitch working on gaining the headwall on "Larry Land" 5.11c

The drive to Bowman is about 6 or so miles on a paved road and then goes into a dirt road. Mitch’s Subaru and my Tacoma handled it like a breeze. I saw a few basic sedans so if you have any sort of sedan, you can make the drive too. (It gets pretty rocky at some places) We drove down the whole road and parked our cars and made the hike out to Larry Land. Its a huge wall with a short 10 foot wide roof section and a slaby head wall. I tried warming up on “Yuba Blue” 5.10b and it was pretty wet. I was unable to even make it to the second bolt due to the water run off. I bailed off and Mitch tried climbing “Hot Rod” 5.11b. He made it about 1/4 of the way up and was quickly shut down to the water run off too. It ended up being all the routes within our climbing capability (sub 5.12) were wet. Mitch tried "Larry Land” 5.11c and got up to the third bolt and lowered off. Dave and I both top roped it up to the third bolt and I found the sequence to get onto the head wall and climb the slab. I lowered off and Mitch gave another run up it getting about 1/2 way up and was to tired. He ended up bailing too.

After all getting shut down by Larry Land, we decided to just swim in the nearby swimming holes and head back to the cars.

Alec running up Nemesis V2

On our way back home, we stopped off at Deer Park Boulders in Rocklin. We had some fun times messing around on a gnarly V2 finger crack “Nemesis” Both Mitch and I sent it and ran some laps on it. Mitch ended up getting a V4 and a gnarly V3 mantle. After a quick session we started our drive back home. 

Overall, I felt okay about my climbing this trip. I could of sent some harder things but I definitely felt sore the following day. It was a lot more fun just messing around and having a good time climbing than it was trying to send some hard serious climbs. Im excited to get stronger and better and head back to Larry Land. ​